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First
steps in puppy training
Step I - getting the puppy's attention
The only way your puppy will ever learn to respond to your commands is if
you can first attract his attention and encourage the pup to home in on
YOU. A young pup will generally look at you and prick his ears up when you
speak to him. It is vital that you are able to keep this attention in
order to proceed with further training.
Once your puppy really knows
his name, attracting his attention is easy. It is amazing how many
adult dogs do not know their names. Their owners would not agree,
but ask them to call the dog when he is not already paying attention to
them and see if he responds. How many times does the owner have to
call the dog's name before they are acknowledged (and how loud do they end
up shouting?). Eventually, many people will resort to words like
biscuit or walkies to get attention. These words, said in an excited
tone get a response, so why not the dog's own name? The truth is, all too
often, nobody has ever taken the time to really teach the dog that it's
name has any importance, but words like biscuit are very important.
Puppies respond to almost anything said in a friendly tone, so it is easy
to assume that they have recognised the name when it is jumbled up with a
whole load of other words. Time spent now on teaching your puppy his name,
and practicing attracting his attention is an ideal base for future
training.
Teaching your puppy his name
Several times a day, take a few minutes to reinforce your puppy' s name.
Arm yourself with some titbits and toys and put your pup on his
lead. The lead is helpful to give you some gentle control over the
pup' s movements - should he decide that something else is more
interesting, you can stop him from wandering off without having to chase
him. You are in charge. Use your titbits and toys to attract
the pup' s attention, call his name, and reward him for looking at you.
Next, hold the titbit up to your face so the pup has to look up at you
when he responds to your calling his name. Repeat this several times
and the pup will soon learn that, when he looks up at you, he is
rewarded.
At the same time as you reward the pup with a food treat,
also use verbal praise, tell the pup he is good. As you progress,
the sound of your voice will be the reward, the occasional titbit merely a
bonus. Repeat the exercise using a toy to attract the pup' s
attention. Call his name and squeak a toy, or tap a ball on the
floor. Hold the toy up to your face, call the pup' s name, then
throw the toy gently (remember, he is on the lead so don't throw the ball
too far!). Allow the pup to chase the toy, and gently guide him back
to you to continue the game.
Experiment with different toys, treats and tones of voice to learn what
works best for your pup. Always reward your pup when he responds to his
name and he will come to know that that specific sound reallv is his own name.
An example session with 'Buster'
the puppy:
Owner puts Buster on lead, takes piece of cheese from polythene
bag behind back, holds cheese between thumb and forefinger, shows it to
Buster but does not give it to him, brings hand with cheese back in
towards body and calls 'Buster' in an upbeat, happy voice. Buster follows the cheese and looks at trainer. Good
boys, Buster, give cheese
Repeat 34 times
Future repetitions: hold cheese up to face, so Buster must look up at you replace food with squeaky toy, ball bounced on floor, chew tapped on
floor etc.
Once you can be confident of
getting your puppy' s attention and holding it for a few moments at a
time, you will be able to start incorporating recalls and positions into
your training sessions.
Step
2 -teaching your puppv to sit
Whv? A dog in a sitting position is more relaxed and attentive
than one that is bouncing around. The dog can pay attention to you and
take his cues as to what to do next from you when he is sitting quietly.
You can slip a collar and lead on, examine him and groom him easily from a
sitting position. The sitting position is ideal for the dog to greet
people. A puppy leaping up on visitors is cute, but a 30 kg muddy monster
may not be so welcome!
How? With the pup on his lead to stop him wandering off, attract his
attention with a toy or tit bit and slowly raise the reward above his
head. The pup' s head should follow the treat and, as the head comes up.
the bottom must go down, placing the puppy naturally into a sitting
position. At the exact instant that the puppy' s bottom touches the
ground, give him the food treat and praise him, but DO NOT SAY SIT
Repeat the exercise a number of times, until the pup understands what you
expect from him. Some pups catch on very quickly, others will take a
little longer. Once you are sure that the pup will sit as you raise the
hand with the treat, start saying 'SIT' as you give him the treat at
the exact moment he assumes the sit position so he can associate the
action with the word. Do not be tempted to use the command before you are
confident that the pup understands what you want from him. Remember,
at this stage, the pup does not yet know what 'sit' means - it is just a
noise.
If you use the word repeatedly while he is jumping around, he
will learn to associate the word with what
he was doing when you said it. 'Sit' could come to mean leap around and
play, not park your bottom on the ground! Dogs understand body
language far more readily than they understand our verbal form of
communication. In time, you will be able to phase out the hand signal and
use the word 'sit' alone, but do not be in too much of a rush to do so.
Get into the habit of giving only one command.
If you have to keep repeating yourself, you are either not keeping
the puppy's attention or he does not understand what you want. Go
back to the beginning, show him again, and reward him every time he gets
it right.
As soon as your puppy has caught on to the idea of sitting when he is
asked, it is a good idea to get into the habit of asking him to sit and
briefly attend to you before he gets anything he wants. In dog language,
this is simply good manners. Ask the pup to sit and attend to you
briefly before you feed him, play a game, groom him, put his lead on, give
him a cuddle or proceed with other training.
Teaching the puppy to lie
down
Why?
This is an ideal position for the dog to be in while you
examine him or administer first aid. A dog which is lying down is less
reactive to what is going on around him and is far more likely to STAY in
position should he need to be left for a few moments. An instant
DOWN from a distance can be a life saver if the dog is heading for danger
such as an approaching train when he is running close to a railway line, a
horse galloping down a bridleway etc.
Method
Start with the puppy paying attention to you in the sit position. Using
his favourite titbit or toy, hold the treat level with the puppy' s nose
and slowly lower the reward down in front of the puppy. On reaching
the floor, drag the treat towards you, in are in front of the puppy.
The puppy' s head should follow the reward and he will slide into the down
position.
Praise the pup and
give him the reward at the moment that he assumes the correct position.
It may take a few attempts before the pup catches on and understands what
is required of him before he earns the reward. Some puppies,
particularly of the smaller breeds, do not lie down properly using this
method. If this is happening, try sitting next to the puppy and using your
legs as a 'bridge' to draw the treat under.
The pup will follow the treat
under the tunnel and will be encouraged to lie down. Make sure he
received his reward at the exact moment when he lies down. Practice
and good timing will reward you both. As with teaching 'sit', do not use
the command until you are sure the puppy understands what you want from
him.
Teaching
the puppy to come when called
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Why?
Very young puppies tend to follow their people around, and it is
easy to be lulled into a false sense of security that this will continue
forever! Sooner or later you
will take your puppy for walks somewhere with many interesting
distractions and for the safety and sanity of all concerned it helps if
you are confident the puppy will come
back. Many dogs are never allowed to run free as their owners are
afraid they will not come back when called. This is very frustrating for
the dog and makes it difficult for them to express normal canine
behaviours.
-
Method
Your puppy will be eager to return to you if you make sure that you are
the most exciting thing around! This is very easy in the house with no
major distractions but can be a little more difficult in the park where
there are other dogs to play with, or even at puppy playgroup! Enhancing
your puppy appeal may involve titbits, toys and your voice.
Remember that
your puppy' s line of focus is very low to the ground, so don't be afraid
to get down to his level - bend or kneel down and tap the floor, shake a
toy or clap your hands. As
with any training exercise, always gain the puppy's attention before
issuing any commands. Have his interest focused on you and, once you are
sure he is coming towards you call his name and the word 'come'. Lots of
praise is needed every time the puppy comes to you, even when you have not
called him. If the puppy becomes distracted before he reaches you, back
away from him, making lots of exciting noises to attract his attention.
Do
not be tempted to go after him - this will turn into a terrific (for the
puppy) chasing game and he will probably win! Always praise the
puppy when he comes to you, no matter how long it takes. Have the
pup come close enough to you that you can touch his collar (this will be
helpful in the future when you need him to come back and have his lead put
on), and offer the food reward as you do so.
Especially while your puppy
is young, he will probably stay fairly close to you on walks and will
return to you regularly for reassurance. Take advantage of this, and
encourage him to turn this into a habit for life. Whenever you see
your pup coming towards you of his own free will, call his name and 'come'
and reward him with praise, and a game or food treat when he reaches
you. Let him go away again, saying 'good boy, go play' or similar,
to continue the game - it's no fun coming back if you just get put
straight on the lead every time
Key points for successful training
-
Training should
be fun for both of you -incorporate training exercises into games the
pup enjoys
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Keep
the play/training sessions short but frequent and varied
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Before
a meal is better than
after, no-one works well on a full stomach, puppies included
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Remember
to allow for titbits used in training when planning your puppy' s
diet. They are not extras but part of his daily ration
(pieces of dry complete puppy food make ideal training treats)
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Be consistent,
Make a list of words you wish to use and make sure everyone
dealing with the pup knows them.
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Make sure everyone
understands the method of training and follows it.
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Make a list
below of the words and hand signals you will use when training your
pup
- Action
- Command
- Hand signal
For example:
-
Pay
attention -use puppy's
name holding hand with treat up to face
-
Sit
- use name plus sit with hand
in front of nose, raise hand vertically
Other commands to teach:
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