
|
Wounds and wound healing
The aim of this fact-sheet is to provide some information on what to do
and what to expect when you first see your horse has a wound.
Wounds can be partial
skin thickness (grazes), full
skin thickness cuts (lacerations), or puncture
wounds through the skin leaving a very small surface wound, (but with
the possibility of damage to deeper structures).
First aid
The first thing to do once your horse becomes injured is move the
horse to a safe place to prevent further injury.
Calm the horse down, and get assistance to hold the horse whilst you
examine the wound. Do not try and do too much without help; even the
most placid horses will behave unpredictably if in pain, and you may
injure yourself.
Try and evaluate the wound, and call the vet for advice if you feel there
is:
-
Excessive
bleeding (haemorrhage).
-
Penetration
or puncture through the entire skin thickness.
-
A
wound on, or close to a joint or tendon.
-
An
infected or contaminated wound.
-
Your
horse is not covered for tetanus.
Until a vet arrives the practical things you can do include:
-
Clean
the wound using clean water, and a very dilute solution of Hibiscrub,
or Pevidine (suggested dilution approximately 1:20).
-
Cover
the wound with a sterile wound dressing such as a Melolin pad.
-
Apply
a bandage with firm but even pressure, ensuring it’s not too tight
to cut off circulation.
Wound healing
Skin
is trying to heal as soon as 5 minutes after it is wounded. White
blood cells move quickly to the site to kill bacteria and destroy dying
body cells and debris. Fibrinogen is secreted by the nearby blood vessels,
forming a scab over the wound. Healing will only occur on a healthy
infection free tissue bed.
If this
is the case, epidermal cells from around the outside of the wound migrate
across the wound under the scab. This can take weeks in an open
wound, but is much quicker in a bandaged wound. Meanwhile under
these advancing cells granulation tissue is being laid down. This
provides a fibrous network for the fragile new skin cells to grow over.
The veterinary assessment
The
vet will then perform a thorough examination of the wound. If the
horse is very stressed, it may be necessary to sedate him to allow a
really good look at the injury. We are trying to look beyond the
skin injury to decide if deeper structures are involved – penetration of
anything into a horse’s joint or tendon sheath can produce a life
threatening infection – so it’s most important
for us to rule such things out first.
We will then decide how to manage the wound. There are three main
choices:
-
Primary
Wound Closure – This is when a vet cleans and then sutures a wound
straight away. To heal successfully, a wound must be sutured in
the first 3 to 6 hours; after this time the level of bacterial
contamination is too great to allow the wound to heal this way and the
sutures will not hold. We call this “wound breakdown”.
-
Delayed
Primary Closure
– If there is some wound contamination, but the wound is still
quite recent, the vet may thoroughly clean and bandage the wound
for a few days. After this time, the infection in the wound may
be controlled, and the swelling reduced. It may then be possible
to suture the wound with less risk of the wound subsequently breaking
down.
-
Second
Intention Healing
– If there is no chance of being able to suture the wound, it
must be left to heal on its own, with or without dressings. This
may be because the wound is too old, too contaminated, or if there is
not enough skin to pull over the deficit.
Your vet will
also discuss antibiotic and anti-tetanus cover for your horse.
Where ever
possible we like to dress wounds. Bandaging wounds tends to allow
them to heal much more quickly than when left open. The wound is
kept moist; this allows the epithelial cells to be bathed in a healthy gel
full of oxygen and nutrients, where as they are far more likely to dry out
and die in an uncovered wound.
Peculiar to the horse is the problem of proud
flesh. This occurs when the granulation tissue in the centre of
the wound grows quickly and is not covered and kept in check by the
epidermal cells as they advance from the edge of the wound. The
granulation tissue will then continue to grow as a large hard pinky lump
out of the wound.
First aid kit
Be
prepared. Below are suggestions for what you may need in a first aid
kit to keep close at hand until required:
-
Your
vet’s telephone number.
-
Cotton
wool.
-
Sterile
non – adherent wound dressings (eg. Melolin pads).
-
Antiseptic
solution, either Hibiscrub or Pevidine.
-
Bandages
– usually two types: a conforming crepe-type for placing the pad
onto the wound, and an elastic Vetwrap type for the top layer.
-
Clean
bucket.
-
Scissors.
That’s it! We suggest you put nothing onto your horse’s wound
unless it’s cleared by a vet. There are thousands of old wives'
tales about things reputed to be great on wounds. Most of these are
useless, and many do more harm than good!
Please remember
that we are always happy to give telephone advice in order to determine
whether or not your horse needs veterinary attention.
Top of page
Wright & Morten guide to:
|